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Scotland a Bonnie Place to Visit

Until recently I had visited Scotland only in my imagination. To see it at last in person was a seductive delight.

Scotland is a quiet land with a stormy past. Populated over the centuries by Romans, Celts, Vikings, Gaels, Picts and Britons, it is an ancient country of vivid contrasts and rugged people. The Lowlands feature gentle hills quilted by green glens and golden meadows. The Highlands and offshore islands offer quite different features: long-fingered lochs (lakes), stark mountain wilderness and glacier-scoured gorges. Sheep are everywhere  as are castle ruins. Unusual place names dot the countryside: Dull, Dollar, Tweed, Rum. Golfers from around the world flock to the nation that founded the addictive game. Scotland's varied splendor casts an enchanting spell.

Like the American South, Scotland is haunted and inspired by its past. It is a country and a culture animated by striking contrasts. Romance and myth clash openly with modern values and high-rise cities.

Scotland, too, has been the battleground for bloody clannish feuds and civil wars, religious disputes and imperial rivalries. It has experienced defeat and occupation at the hands of invading armies, all the while displaying a feisty gallantry.

Today Scotland remains an ambivalent member of the United Kingdom. A vocal minority still yearns for independence from Britain, and the decision to restore the Scottish Parliament in 1997 has excited nationalist fervor.

The capital and second-largest city, Edinburgh, exceeds its reputation; it is impossible to exaggerate the city's charms and majestic power. Sitting astride the Firth of Forth estuary on a sea-salted, wind-carved crag of solid rock, Old Edinburgh is a regal colossus. The ancient castle atop the cliff provides a reference point for the whole city. It is also serves as the western terminus of the Royal Mile, a congested avenue intersected by narrow lanes and alleys, ending at Holyrood Palace, the Scottish residence of the Queen of England.

In between the palace and the castle are countless stores, galleries, pubs, churches, hostelries and bookshops. History broods over the city. It was the home of Scottish kings as well as the lionhearted Mary, Queen of Scots, whose political judgment lagged behind her stunning beauty. Edinburgh also hosted John Knox, the fearless father of Presbyterianism who chastised Queen Mary for her Catholic pretensions and social intrigues.

Nowadays, however, there is little sign of John Knox's stern Calvinism in Edinburgh. The streets are roiling with revelers and troubadours. During the summer, the city hosts seven major overlapping festivals that attract more than a million visitors and create an air of unrelenting energy.

Over the last 50 years the Edinburgh International Festival has emerged as one of the world's greatest celebrations of the arts, an annual extravaganza of nonstop entertainment. It includes opera, ballet, classical music and serious theater, nine days of jazz and blues, a book fair, a film festival, art exhibitions, a stirring military tattoo featuring massed pipe and drum units, and the Fringe Festival, a hip counterpart to the International Festival which alone produces more than 20,000 performances by 600 different production companies in 207 venues, including phone booths, pubs, sidewalks and alleys.

Even though the best way to travel is with no goal in mind, I was on a mission of sorts in Scotland. Our quest was in search of plaid. From Edinburgh we made our way north to Inverness, ably guided by Frank and Susan Shaw, ardent lovers of all things Scottish.

Frank, an Atlanta resident, had commissioned James Scarlett to design a tartan for Furman University. Scarlett is the leading authority on tartans, and he proved to be a delightful host. The folklore about tartans, he explained, has been terribly distorted by romantic literature and passionate antiquarianism, commercial desires and public gullibility.

What has become for tourists (and especially Americans) an exclusive form of fancy dress was in fact an ancient Highlands art form dictated by the region's poverty. Different communities preferred different tartan patterns, but the rigid scheme of clan-specific designs did not emerge until the 18th century.

Whatever the mythology surrounding tartans, Furman's new plaid fabric will be an original design featuring purple and white. Kilts and trousers, scarves, hats, and ties will be available to all, regardless of family heritage. James Scarlett did suggest, however, that we consider renaming the university MacFurman. What a bonnie idea!

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